Sushi is delectable, delicate, and considered by many a delicacy. Fish, when prepared raw, has a tender flesh that graciously responds with each chew. Done right, a bite of sushi does not offer any flavor that overwhelms; whilst maintaining unique characteristics. Familiar now to most urban inhabitants, sushi does not have the dramatic history and tradition that one typically associates with Japanese customs. The preponderance of sushi in the United States and ‘the west’ is a new fad, yet its ability to masquerade as a staple of traditional Japanese cuisine for centuries speaks more to its universal magnetic qualities then its un-rooted genesis.
If you consider yourself to be a connoisseur you might already know that sushi is the Japanese word for a dish comprised of fish and rice, typically rice that has been marinated in rice vinegar. The raw fish typically accompanying the sushi rice and seaweed is sashimi. Even the most ignorant lay eater can pick rice from a lineup. The marriage between fish and rice in Asian cuisine is unique matrimony. While Constantine the Great was becoming the first Roman emperor to convert to Christianity, in Japan dead fish were being preserved between two cakes of rice for future consumption. At this point in history Japan was overwhelmingly Buddhist. This religious sect has a tradition of abstaining from red meat. This combined with the proximity to the ocean most likely is the reason fish became a staple of Japanese cuisine. Caking rice paddies and enveloping fish was the primary preservation method before refridgeration was invented. The fish would marinate in the rice paddies for two years. When rice begins to ferment, lactic acid bacilli are produced. This acid, and salt, slows the growth of harmful bacteria in fish. The fish when prepared this way has a sour taste. In fact, sushi, in it’s original instantiation of the Japanese language, translates to “sour tasting.” Historical context provides insight into the genesis of modern day sushi. In the 17th century Japan experienced somewhat of a cultural renassaince. Tokugawa Leyasu ruled Japan as a benevolent
military dictator. In moving the capital of Japan from Kyoto to port city of Edo, what is present day
Tokyo, he spurned the economic and cultural growth by facilitating the growth of Edo. As Japan’s
economic growth continued it’s understanding of food preparation expanded as well. Now sushi was
being prepared in much the same way with two important imporovements that incrementally shortened
the fermentation process. First the fish and rice combination was compressed in a small wooden box to
increase the pressure on the fish internal components, second vinegar was added to the rice. This
shortered the fermentation process from a span of up to two years to mere hours. Soon this preparation
process was going to be replaced and the result would be what we understand as ‘nigiri sushi’ or modern
Flash forward to the early 19th century. A man named Hanaya Yohei is putting the finishing
touches on his wooden stall while eople around him are wading through the dusty streets and trying to
ignore the imistakable aroma of a fishing port city. Hanaya was oblivious, his neighbors too; a new
invention was about to promptly place itself in the forefront of japanase cuisine. The Ryoguku district
where Hanaya was working was a busy and bustling place. Ryoguku, translating to “the place between
two countries” was strategically situated on the banks of the Sumida River. This meant that it was a
main artery of trade, commerce, and the confluence of cultures. The rapid pace would serve as a
conduit of his innovation of sushi, in the tradition understandaing of the word. The constituents of the
city had busy lives and the growing economy demanded a food that would be quickly prepared,
convenient, and of course tasty. Yohei-san saw an opportunity. By setting up his stall on one of the few
bridges that served the businessmen he had direct access to the exact market that would benefit from his
innovation. He reasoned that he could use fish that were caught fresh from the bay, fish so fresh that
they could be served raw (editors note: please don’t try this at home!). This was possible because the fish
were so fresh and the bay, at that time, was virgin to the contaminants that would pollute it in the later
years. He would press small cuts of the fish’s flesh onto balls of rice which had been prepared with
vinegar and salt only minutes early and serve it to the passerbys. Like the strong current of the Sumida
River the streams of customers would soon be entrapped by Yohei-san and his new “fast food.” Yohei-
san’s stall would be his net, he would benefit greatly from the troves of customers.
Fast forward to the United states, and the 20th decade that yielded bell bottoms, afro’s, and disco.
While the country was in the thick of a cultural revolution a new era was about to begin. Nigiri sushi
was about to take over the country. Thanks to advances in refrigeration fish could now be shipped over
long distances safely.
On the gold coast in southern California two contemporary businessmen were going to provide
the western world what Yohei-san had provided the Japanese. Noritoshi Kanai and Harry Wolff’s
partnership was exemplary of the new attitude of the country. A Jew and a Japanese man were about to
change the country for the better. This is after internment camps and concentration camps had once
served to marginalize and brutally segregate Jews and Japanese. Kanai had worked in food logisitic after
serving his country in the same role for years. Kanai credits his experience in the military as reason for
his commercial success. Wolff was an entroprenuerial individual who put himself in the good graces of
Kanai and served as his right hand man for years to come. This would be an integral part of the
introduction of sushi to the american cuisine, celebraties became efatuated with the exotic snack and
Wolff and Kanai feverently imported as much sashimi from Japan as possible. Wolff and Kanai also
hired revered sushi chefs to provide the finishing touches that would allow the exotic culture to permeate
the meal and sushi establishments. From southern california sushi bars started opening in New York and
Chicago.
For me the brilliance is the nuance of the dish. To describe the sushi experience is to understand
umami. Creating a pleasant savory taste is a formidable accomplishment. It’s subtle charecteristics are
bold, the ingredients are simple enough. Less, in the case of sushi, is more. Modern sushi chefs have
introduced new ingredients, preparation, and serving methods. Vegetarians and even those afflicted
with Celiac disease can partake. Nigiri sushi balances it’s ability to cater universally while retaining its
inherently unique and distinct exotic aura.
